good evening. the waves were going off out on the north shore. haleiwa was the spot…

pulled up in the morning knowing that the waves are on the rise. it was 3′ in the morning and building fast. i seen a couple of 8′ sets in the evening. nao and i went out and i was a little nervous for her because if a freak 10′ set comes, she’s in big trouble… me too. but she ran away and only got caught by a couple of 6′ sets. good experience for her…

every tom, dick, and harry was out today. mick fanning, taj burrow, fred pataccia, sean moody, kekoa balcasco, the hobgood’s, shuji kasuya, glenn matsumoto, glenn minami, and a whole bunch of top pros…. it was fun to surf, and fun to watch everybody ripping haleiwa. by the way, this is mick fanning….

stopped by the log cabin house and all the kids were down at the beach playing around in the shorebreak…

then we rode our bikes to check out pipeline. gosh, it was so beautiful. really west swell with perfect peeling barrels. gosh, it was such a nice day for surfing on the north shore. another big swell on thursday and more swells on the way. it’s going to be a great december….

for the past week, nao-chan fell asleep everyday on the way home from the north shore. yesterday and today, i made her stay up. how? she was laughing at me while i was singing karaoke in the car all the way home.. haha….

good black friday morning. the busiest shopping day of the year in america. i ain’t going near the malls today. i’m going to the beach!!! the buoy peaked at 8 feet 21 seconds last night so this is going to be a really clean 10-15′ swell. the waves are looking 4-6′ now but be careful because it’s going to come up really fast. the sunset beach contest should get on its way. haleiwa and pipeline should be epic today. no wind now but onshore winds should be coming around lunch time. have a nice day and be safe….

2 houses down from where my sister them are staying, they made this awesome slide yesterday. you just have to see the youtube video i took. chicks flying 10′ in the air while holding their beer? very talented. i downloaded the video and i’m not sure if i should show it because some clips are rated X. yeah, tops flying off and everything… you just had to be there…

here are a few more photos from yesterday’s rocky point session. sonny miller has been on the beach all day filming the roxy girls. i guess their making a video or something. this roxy girl was surfing the best. i don’t know her name but some of the backside shaps she was doing was nuts. this is nuts…

kahea hart was out there ripping too. it’s funny to see all the kids out there ripping and catching all the waves. then kahea paddles out and does some sick turn that keeps the kids quiet….

whether your surfing the waves or surfing the skies, as long as your surfing, it’s all good…

and last, want to thank toda-san for sending me this photo of mt. fuji. you just made my day!!!

good evening. another long beautiful day. i must sound like a broken record or something. i don’t know where the heck i get all my energy from? maybe from the kids? i’m even starting to act like a kid again. did i say again? i’ll probably always be a kid. but wow, we had fun on this happy turkey day. a lot of surfing, and a lot of photos…

we pulled by the horse to give him some turkey. then i jumped on his back with my surfboard and road him to rocky point. nah, don’t believe that you turkey…

rocky point was the spot again today. it was 3-5′ and perfect. with not too many turkeys out. a lot of broken boards and a lot of drop ins. i went out with my ear plugs so i couldn’t hear anybody yelling from behind me. i had a great time surfing out there by myself. haha…

isaiah moniz was ripping. this kid’s got style both in and out of the water…

then we all headed back to the log cabin house. some kids were surfing, some kids were playing at the house, and isaiah and dianne went out for a stand up paddle. i went out there after to check out the dolphins. my arms are sore….

there is this little secret beach break we surfed this afternoon. super fun waves with only a couple of guys out. here is seth moniz smacking the lip….

after today, nao-chan is darker than me. i only can see her face when she smiles….

kelia was always darker than me. i don’t know anybody else darker than her….

and last, the rell sunn menehune contest is on this weekend starting tomorrow. go out there and cheer on the groms!!!! CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION….
****HUGE ASS SWELL STARTING TOMORROW. HIGH SURF WARNING FOR SURE. YEAH!! STAY TUNED….