this morning there was nobody on the roads. but the beach was a
different story. a lot of turkeys out at rocky point…. kesa no
michi wa gara gara. kuruma zenzen nakatta no. demo umi no hou wa
chigaimasu. ippai ippai surfers… kore kara turkey tabemasu…

good morning. first off, i want to wish nao-chan a sweet sixteen happy birthday.[:??$B!^(B??????:] turning 16 years old in america is a big deal. why? i don’t know. maybe because it’s when a girl becomes an older girl? maybe because she can get her license? i still don’t know why but i remember my high school friends 16th birthday being a special one for them. anyway, happy birthday nao. i hope you get barreled today….

more shots from yesterday’s lunch break. cory lopes floating it. gosh, i love my camera….

after this wave, kahea hart came in and told me how cold it was out there. yeah, i know. he wasn’t the only one freezing yesterday. we all were. it seems like the water just got cold overnight. and it’s probably going to get colder. so to all you japanese coming to hawaii, bring a wetsuit or you’ll be paddling in after 15 minutes. just ask nao…

and last, check out this picture of the week. these indonesia kids playing in the floods. sure looks a lot more fun than sitting in front of a tv playing video games…. this is healthy fun…
**HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY!!! today’s a day to give thanks so let’s all take this time to give thanks for everything we have…. thank you, thank you, and thank you…. as for the waves, a little smaller than yesterday but still super fun and clean. 2 rounds of surf today with 2 rounds of turkey dinner. have a nice thankful day….

good evening. another long day. gosh, i really like to maximize my 24 hours/day but the sun is killing me. i’m black as can be and need more water than i usually do. it’s called dehydration….[:????????????:]

pulled up to backdoor this morning to check it out. 4′ and fun but not good enough to get me out there. it has to be perfect…

instead, we went to rocky point and that was the call. it was super fun and not too many guys were out. score… then we went back for an afternoon session. nao-chan caught so many good waves today. score…

i called garut from rocky’s. he was at off the wall so he came speeding over on his bike. we had a fun session together…

even though it’s cloudy, the camera guys have to work. my friends derek hoffman, sonny miller, and kinsan. if you were out at rocky’s this morning, somebody got your wave. that’s for sure….
**nao and i went to grab a sandwich and eat it on the beach at off the wall. we were there for about 30 minutes. check out some of the shots i got. if i stayed there all day, i could have made a magazine…

this was nick mita’s last wave. snap!!!

i’ve seen dave wassel get more backdoor barrels than anybody else out there. he’s a lifeguard at pipe so i guess he knows when it’s good. oh, not to mention, dave is a good free diver. he represented the hawaiian team in a tournament held in tahiti…

oh my gosh. check out this air. i think this is cory lopez. going left at off the wall is crazy. when it’s low tide, there is no water to land on. more photos coming tomorrow. i have to go rehydrate with an ice cold beer. [:?????????:]