there’s this little island off japan that not too many people know about. it was 10 years ago when matsuo, matchi and i caught this little ferry over to surf this spot nobody surfed big before. the waves were 10′ solid and we just paddled out and scored. matsuo ended up getting the cover shot of surfing world. matchi and i got 2 page spreads on huge waves. and the photographer ended up buying a house on the island and now lives there. it’s amazing how one surf session can change lives….

this is the secret ferry going to the secret island. did you know that there are 100 great white shark attacks a year there? so think before going…..

old school fisherman taking care of his boat…

there’s so much history here. old japan left untouched….

there are no cars on the island and the only way to get around is by bicycle or walking. it’s such an awesome place…

and not to mention, the waves are pretty freaking good. but remember, the great white sharks are agressive…..

good evening from tahiti. finally got an internet connection so this is what’s happening, or happened. been diving, making new friends, and having fun. or basically, loving live. the people in tahiti are so kind, friendly, and warm hearted. the last time i came here, the thing that stuck in my mind is, “this is what hawaii probably use to be a 100 years ago”. and i still feel the same way. so much aloha here and everybody just welcomes us. no bad vibes. just good ones. as for the fish? a lot. we’re on this island called Manihi. population about 1000 friendly people. solar energy, water catchment system. so basically if it’s sunny, you get electricity. and if it rains, you get water. because manihi is an atoll, there are no vegetables. only coconuts grow on this island. since i’m here with the top divers from hawaii and tahiti, there is no shortage of fish. sashimi, poke, steamed, fried, boiled fish every night. got to much to talk about but not now. going diving till dark, and then it’s hinano time. i’m probably the happiest person on earth right now. i haven’t opened my emails and won’t until i get back to hawaii in a few days. well, got to get back to the tahitian lifestyle. and being online isn’t what i’m talking about. have a great day or night where ever you are…. maruru….

hey guys, the official start of the triple crown of surfing going on from nov. 12-23 at haleiwa each. that’s today!!! its’ a 6 star WQS and a lot of careers are on the line. it’s a huge contest that can make or break careers. watch the drama LIVE BY CLICKING HERE…..