good morning. 6:30am and the waves looking fun. waist high clean waves at bowls with only a couple of guys out. north shore looks good again with a bunch of dawn patrollers at laniakea. looks head high and super fun. sunny skies and trade winds blowing making for another day in paradise. i’m going to find out exactly how much longer i have to stay out of the water today. if my doctor tells me another week, i’m going to seriously put on my diving mask and go catch a wave this evening. might look weird but i don’t care… anyway, have a nice day…

this is my eye doctor. his name is Dr. Camara. he’s been the one taking care of my eye. it’s so weird because i see him on tv commercials, newspapers, even on the cover. is he a singer too? i’m going in for an appointment now so i’ll ask him. maybe i’ll ask him to sing me a song to make my eye feel better….

since june, my poor car hasn’t been washed. gosh, i’ve just been to busy and don’t like paying $15 for somebody else to wash it when i could do it myself. so today, i took an hour and took care of my car that has been taking care of me. it’s so clean now that i don’t even want to drive it…

i just got some new license plates for my car. don’t ask why. but they told me to throw away my old ones. gosh, i can’t throw it away. they are kind of bust up but i bet somebody in japan wouldn’t mind having some hawaii license plates. i see the all over the place in japan so i guess people collect them. if anybody wants them, let me know before these go in a box under my house forever…
**and last, i have tons of video clip dating back to march 2008. so many to post with so little time. this is a short one of my thailand trip. the more i think about it, the more i laugh. why? i just think to myself that “that guy is crazy to go where nobody speaks english and where you don’t know what the heck your eating.” that guy is me… haha….

good evening. we went hunting today and came across one lucky pig. we were in position, the pig came out of the bushes, my friend loaded the arrow, lined him up, then took the shot. shit!!! missed the whole pig!!! the arrow went high and the pig ran away. i took video of the whole thing while getting bitten by millions of mosquitos. a couple people wanted to know how we hunt here in hawaii so i took video to post. but not this time… we will try again this weekend. i guess it was that pigs lucky day. if we got him, i would have pork chops, spareribs, and liver sashimi all week long. heard the winds are going to back off next week. i’m hearing plans of a molokai boat trip? sounds good with me. anyway, swells on the way but i’m still out of commission. i don’t even want to think about surfing right now.. have a great evening….
**by the way, we just changed servers so i lost some of my emails. i pressed the wrong button and erased some emails i got yesterday and today. so if you sent me an email and don’t get a response in the next few days, that means i accidentally erased it. sorry. also, for some reason, i can’t send out emails today. naoka, HELP!!!


dede suryana from bali won the aerial division at the asian beach games yesterday. i’m not surprised at all. dede pulls off the craziest airs….

this is the finals. hey, isn’t that miyazaki’s yuichi kurogi from japan in blue??? yeah it is. i recognized the spice shorts. yeah yuichi!!! ganbatte ta ne!!!! congratulations to all the finalist!!!

i boiled some fresh hawaiian grown okura, cut it up, mixed it with katsuo flakes, natto, ponzu, and put it over hot rice… oh my gosh!!! stink breath.. haha…
*hey, today my latest video got a good ranking again. i’m pretty stoked….
#20 – Most Viewed (Today) – Travel & Events – Japan
watch it again and imagine this place double overhead, offshore winds, low tide, and hollow enough to drive a car through. this is the very place i got my best backside barrel in my whole entire surfing life. in fact, it was later that evening. if somebody got that on video, i would make kelly slaters video for sure…. haha…

ima buta hunt desu. iru kana? up in the mountains looking for pork….