good morning. 6:30am sat morning. waves in town look super fun. shoulder high with maybe some head high sets at bowls. 15 guys out there already and looks like 50 or so surfers spread out at ala moana park. gosh, looks like summer. super clean conditions and once again, i can just dream about it. i’m back on the road today driving all over so stay away if you see my car. haha… have a nice day surfing. and please catch a wave for me…..

ok, these 2 guys are called uku’s. some of the hardest fish to spear. why? because you have to go deep and stay down pretty long for them to come into distance. i blacked out, or almost blacked out spearing one of these. i don’t remember where or what i was doing when i came up. all i know that i stayed down and deep too long and almost never made back to the surface. you know when you start seeing stars???? anyway, when you finally catch one, all your thinking is sashimi. uku’s make the best sashimi. we had a great sushi party that night…. and by the way, these big boys are average size ones in indo. i seen some twice the size. i think kyle has some pretty awesome video from this trip. we seen some pretty crazy shit….


been to indo a lot of times but this time, we caught so many fish that towards the end of the trip, the guys were letting go big GT’s. but this one was a keeper. this is marcy with the prize sailfish….

and last, for all of those who tried to figure out where this sunset photo was taken, sorry. it’s not okinawa, not diamond head, not sandy beach, not timor, and not bali. keep on trying for that tshirt… i’ll give you a hint: it’s somewhere you wouldn’t even imagine…. hope that helps….

good evening. wow, what a nice day it was outside. i know i shouldn’t be checking the waves and stuff because i’m going to want to surf. so like a fool, i dropped by queen’s this morning and the waves were so fun. gosh, i would do anything to be able to catch one wave right now. all i can do is dream…. i’m going to find out on tuesday how much longer i have to stay out of my second home, the ocean…. hope not the 3 months everybody’s telling me. if that’s the case, i’m going to roppongi and rent an apartment and drink my life away… haha.. just joking.. i ain’t that weak. maybe just a month? have a great evening…
**ok, i heard that there was a spot in east indonesia that’s identical to the world class mentawai wave, macaroni’s. the only thing is that instead of it being a left, it was a right. really? that was in my mind before i boarded the boat. so there we were, one early morning looking at the spot. we were anchored pretty far so the waves looked really tiny. we were planning to dive all day so figure, get in an early morning session before we hunt fish. a couple of us grabbed our boards, sped over on the dingy, and as we were approaching the lineup, i couldn’t believe my eyes. macaroni’s right!!! shit, the waves were absolutely perfect!! indo perfection. glassy conditions with 4-5′ waves peeling like it was fake or something. it was just the 3 of us out getting barreled out of our minds. i totally blew it by not taking my video camera but even if i did, there was no way i would have shot video. i just wanted to surf this dream session with the memory etched in my mind for the rest of my life…. and plus, i didn’t want to show anybody else in this world how perfect that wave is. it was just us and the ocean and i was loving life….

little did i know, al had his hero wrist camera and snapped some photos of that dream session. we were out so early that morning that the sun wasn’t even up yet. and when it started to rise, the golden light shined and all you could see is white teeth smiling cheek to cheek. look how glassy the conditions were, imagine 4-5′ lines coming in. till this day, that morning session was like a dream. i still can’t believe it…

ok, now i’m busted. here it is. please don’t anybody go there. and please don’t anybody ask me where it is. if i tell you, i’d have to kill you….

yeah, you would be laughing if you got as many perfect barrels as i did that morning…. thanks al for keeping the dream alive….

today queen’s, waikiki check shite, nami wa agarimashita. mune kata
de sugoi fun wave datta. hairitakatta kedo mou chotto gaman
shimasu…. i checked queen’s today. the waves look super fun. i
wish i can surf…. ahhhh…..