this is the hassle part of traveling. getting the boards on the truck, off the truck, on the truck, off the truck, on the plane, off the plane, on the truck, off the truck, on the dingy, off the dingy and finally on the boat. it takes a lot of time but after it’s all done, it’s worth it… oh, then when the trips over, it’s the opposite all over again….. we had 350 something kilos in excess baggage. everybody bought their houses with them…. i felt bad only bringing 5 cups of rice and nori… haha….
Traveling Excess Baggage…
Dreams Really do Come True….
what’s up everybody. got off the boat yesterday in sumbawa. jumped in a crazy 4 hour bus ride through the jungle at night. one mistake, everybody’s dead and never be found. 1000′ feet cliff drops on both sides of the car. bumpy as heck, goats, dogs, people out of nowhere popping up on the narrow gravel road. it was nuts!! checked into a pretty bust up hotel near the airport. got attacked by mosquitos. flew out this morning and landed in bali. first stop? mcdonalds…. ummmm….. i opened my email and there were over 1250. shit!! no way… i’m out of here. i’ll get back to you all when i get back to hawaii. mahalo…
hey, i wrote a 14 day diary while i was on the boat checking out the islands. day 1 seemed so long ago. the only thing i remember off hand was the lobster sashimi we all ate for pupu’s….. great start to a great trip….
these are just 2 of many big fish i speared. a GT and a big ass uku. sashimi? you know that!!!!
ok, for the past 14 days, i seen 14 sunsets and 14 sunrises. this is just one of the better ones i woke up too… imagine falling asleep gazing at the millions of stars, then waking up with the golden orange light warming your face up? then scoring solid perfect surf and plenty of fish? dream trip? you better believe it. i took over 2300 images and some of them will blow your freaking mind. if i were to rate that trip on surf, fishing, diving, and fun. i’d have to give it a solid 10 points. i had enough surfing/diving/fun in the last 14 days that some people won’t experience in their lifetime. ahhhh…. i’m so happy… i’m going to get a nice massage, then eat some ice cream…. gotta go…..
1982 Surfer Magazine Cover….
remember this surfer magazine cover shot photo? i do. at that time, i thought that this was the coolest cover shot. and still do. you got mark richards on his lightning bolt twin-fin board , cheyne horan on his laser zap, dane kealoha with his town and country, rabbit barthlemow on a channel bottom single fin, and simon anderson on his new innovative thruster. this was the era where surfers had their own styles and rode their own unique kind of board. to me, these legends paved the way for every surfboard design we have today and every surfers style out there. i’m super stoked to have lived i that era. the new school kids growing up now days don’t know that these guys were the roots to everything they have now. l little bit of surfing history…