I LOVE YOU….

good morning. 6am and welcome to a one day north swell. yup, the buoy came up last night but is already coming down. the good news is the swell arrived right on time for the start of the womens pipeline pro. the bad news is that it’s only 2-4′ and out of the north. not a good direction for pipe. i’m surprised because the buoy got pretty big last night so i thought the waves will be at least 6′. well, i guess it’s better than nothing. it’s april tomorrow so we’re lucky to even be getting waves on the north shore. town’s waist high and really clean. i have millions of things to do today so i better get going. one is to surf….. have a nice day!!
**ok, i’ve been lost since i was a kid. i was told not to use the word “deaf” so i didn’t. well, until now. after meeting jared and getting a lot of emails from deaf surfers, now i know that deaf is a better word than what i’ve been using all this time, which was “hearing impaired”. kyoko-san sent me an email saying that impaired or disability is a negative word. yes it is and i’m sorry for using it all these years. and i’m sorry if i offended anyone out there. by the way, there is the WORLD DEAF SURF COMPETITION on july 9-12 right here at queen’s beach, waikiki. jared’s put a lot of time and effort into this contest so i hope i’m here during that time. until then, just wanted to say thank you to everybody out there that’s sent me such kind emails about this topic. it changed my way of thinking big time…
**and check out what i just learned…

I…….

LOVE…..

YOU….

I LOVE YOU[:?????????:]

2008 JPSA Grand Champion Teppei Tajima DVD…


when i turned on my tv last night, it broke. finally after 8 years i could go shopping for a new one. straight to sam’s club for a flat screen HD tv….

i went big!!! a 42″ sony flat screen tv. i hope i get 8 years out of this one too. now i’m going to look for a dvd to stick in….

i tried to time it right and checked diamond head at 2:30pm. it was nothing like yesterday. it was worst… windy and cold. there were only 2 guys when i paddled out and then there came teppei tajima and nick mita. those guys were ripping so hard that it was time for me to go in. shit, i have to practice more on small waves. thanks for schooling me boys….

then i met up with eiko and jared. i learned some sign language that i will never forget. thanks eiko for the present… and jared, i’m thinking about learning to sign language. where do you teach again?? maybe i’ll take a summer course…. yoroshiku ne…
**hey chicks, the buoy came up so expect pipe to be 6′ and maybe bigger tomorrow. the contest will probably be on and expect windy conditions. morning sickness conditions cleaning up throughout the day. good luck girls…. puinsai….

**and last, it was so weird that i was going to put teppei’s dvd on my blog tonight. and i seen him paddle out to light house. what timing. everybody’s been telling me that this is the best dvd that’s been out in a while. i remember teppei when he was a little grom surfing shidashita every single day. now he’s the JPSA grand champion and freaking ripping. it’s so stoked to see a grom with a dream, a dream that came true. go teppei!!! see you this summer ripping up the south shore. and as soon as i go to japan, i’m going to buy this dvd to watch on my new big ass tv!!! yeah!!!

My High School Picture….


CHEESE….