good evening. woke up to what i thought was going to be a shitty day for surf. but i was wrong. i pulled up to laniakea at 11am and the waves were going off!!! solid 5′ with bigger sets breaking all the way across. i paddled out the way your not supposed to on big north swells because you will get cleaned up. as i was going to jump in with my 6’0 and thin competition leash, this surfer dude came up to me and said “abunai”. i guess he thought i was japanese. so i said “daijyobu” which means “no worries mate.” he shook his head and walked away. as i jumped in, i knew he was watching me and wanted me to get caught by a big set. i timed it right and made it out untouched. i looked back to the beach to see if the guy was still there and was ready to give him a shaka sign. then there it was, a big 6′ set coming down on my head… shit… i didn’t want to snap my leash so i didn’t let go of my board. i held on and the wave shook me up like a rag doll. i came up a little dizzy and said, it’s time to surf…. i had such a good session with my small board. i felt like kelly slater… haha…

i surfed at 11am. i ate this big lunch at 10:30am. on the way out, i stopped by my favorite local plate lunch restaurant and ordered my favorite liver/bacon, chicken cutlet combo. it was so good….

then i went to the go-naminori house to pick up the girls to bring to town. we went to champa thai, then went to a bar to sing karaoke, then to a strip club, then danced all night long… haha.. just joking… we had a great talk in the car driving back from the north shore. yumie and yumi are helping me out with a book i’m writing. haha.. that’s a joke too… 2 cool girls….

and last, since i haven’t gotten barreled for a long time, i’m going to stare at this photo for the next hour and dream. this backdoor day seemed like years ago…. i can’t wait to do it again…

4-6′ Off-Shore and Perfect!!! Go-Naminori….

good morning. 6:30am and it’s still pretty cold. north swell still going out in the country. lani’s again your best bet. town has some small ones but i’m over it. going north today. cloudy, little rainy, but still better than nothing… have a fun and safe day….

the other day, there was this little bird sitting on my windshield wiper. i brought him home and he’s sitting on my shoulder right now… not…

i went to go see kalua yesterday. he’s looking more and more delicious every time i see him….

seth moniz is holding up his 2nd place trophy from the tssc contest last year in shikoku. this years contest is coming up next month and seth wants to be holding that 1st place one. see, seth hates 2nd place. and there’s one kid standing in his way, that’s shun murakami…. rivals? i love it…

i can’t wait till april 5th when these kids will battle it out for the championship trophy. no matter who wins, i’ll be happy. but i know that those kids don’t feel the same… ganbare!!!