good morning. 6am here on this aloha friday. the waves are GOING OFF!!!! i seen some solid 4’+ sets at bowls. 12 guys on it now. the swell looks solid, the winds are light, and the conditions are epic. could this be the swell of the summer? maybe…. i’m out of here. see you in the water…..

i went to drop off a 50lbs bag of corn yesterday to kalua. gosh, that pig is huge. getting bigger and bigger. he must weigh around 300lbs and is not even 1 year old. been going up in the mountains checking out the pigs and all of kalua’s brothers and sisters are gone. even the mom. i guess the dogs got them but that’s part of life for a wild pig. kalua seems to be happy and loving life. he gets to eat more mango’s than i do. lucky pig…..

when i saw him eating these perfect ripe mango’s, i got jealous. recently, a lot of people have been asking me about kalua and i just want to let them know that he’s perfectly fine. just a little overweight. just a little.. haha…[:??$B”y(B???:]

the cool thing about japan is that there is so much culture. there are so many temples almost ever where you go. in the city and in the country. this is a temple in wakayama. i still don’t understand the full meaning of temples but when ever i see one, i can feel the energy…..

good evening. gosh, what an awesome day. i was going to surf bowls this morning but i changed my mind and went to big rights. good thing because at 9am they kicked out all the surfers from waikiki to tennis court. so big rights was like the line where you could surf. why? because they were practicing for the US Air Force Thunderbirds Show. anyway, while we were surfing, the 6 jets came out of the blue and flew right over us. they were doing all kind of tricks and i swear we had the best seats ever. it was awesome…..

ever since i saw the movie “Top Gun”, i wanted to be a pilot. i even enlisted in the Air Force but changed my mind after i found out i had to go to college first. it was my dream and seeing them today in action, i wish i was up there. i probably would have threw up but it looked like a rush…. the show is this saturday in waikiki at 2:30pm. they are expecting 150,000 people. i’m there for sure….

this was ala moana park today. the waves were perfect 3′. super fun but packed. i’m just enjoying myself now and taking it easy. going to be pulling into big barrels in the philippines next week so i’m waiting for that….

this is brandon’s dog. imagine this bull biting you in the ass. must hurt…..

and this is some secret spot in japan. photographer sekida-san sent me this from typhoon 5. is it really that thick? yes, it is. i surfed it during typhoon 6 and it was even thicker than that…..

and last, major upsets today at the boost mobile pro. mick fanning and andy irons eliminated by wildcards dane reynolds and jordy smith. kelly slater is still going so he’s going to be the guy to beat….. stay tuned….

good morning, 6:15am here in hawaii. waves all over the island. town is still chest/shoulder high but should be coming up throughout the day. expect solid 4′ by tomorrow. yeah!!! 10 guys out at the park, 5 guys out at rockpiles, and 20 guys already out at bowls. soon, it’s going to be 21 guys. i’m out of here. have a nice day… oh, the WCT Boost Mobile Pro is on now!! CLICK HERE FOR LIVE COVERAGE…..


check out this clark foam triple stringer gun eric arakawa shaped for craig sako. one of the last one’s you will ever see. eric arakawa is an awesome shaper. through out the years, he’s made me some really good boards. in fact, i still have some in my quiver. eric’s not only one of the worlds top shaper, he’s also one of the nicest guy you will ever meet. skill, patience, understanding, and kindness. what more can you ask for? eric’s the man…. thanks craig for sending me this photo. and what’s up eric….
**i was just checking out yuko’s blog. she’s in malibu right now and when i seen that photo, it brought back some memories. it was in may 2 years ago when i came back from puerto escondido on a stopover in LA. i ended up driving up to santa barbara to check out some dive shops. on the way back, i drove down pacific coast highway and passed by this unreal looking right. it was head high, perfect, uncrowded, and super long. i didn’t know where it was until i seen the sign “malibu”. gosh, the waves looked so good. i thought to myself that this is the famous spot called “malibu” so i got excited and jumped out of the car to grab my board and wetsuit. but, i forgot i left it at my hotel in LA. i haven’t felt so much as a loser before. i still can’t believe it. i haven’t told too many people about this…. haha…. anyway, check out yuko’s blog by CLICKING HERE…..


i took this photo at the santa barbara harbor. gosh, that place is so beautiful. and that’s also the place where tom curren came from. i went there looking for him. haha….