good morning. 5:30am big thursday. solid south swell in town. seen some consistent 4′ sets at bowls and there’s probably even bigger ones. clean conditions right now. if it’s anything like yesterday, score. 3 more south swells on the way. best best best summer ever. my legs and arms are so tired from being in the water but i just can’t get enough…. i’m out of here… have a nice and safe day….

my brother went fishing the other day and caught some aku, or katsuo. he asked me to cut it for him but i was too dam tired. i’m glad hayato is here…

and i was too tired to cook. i’m glad hayato is here… haha… itadakimasu… oh, he’s torching the sashimi to make the outside burn. it’s called “katsuo tataki” in japanese… oishi yo….

here is shun getting ready for the feast… good food after a good day. same thing today….
**2 years ago when i was in bali. i was surfing bingin when i seen this 6′ shark jump out of the water right in front of me. it didn’t scare me at all because i see sharks all the time. that night, i told bol and garut that i seen a shark jump out of the water. and you know what? they laughed at me. they told me that sharks can’t jump. now i get the last laugh.. haha…

look bol…

look garut…

now do you believe???? you better believe or else a shark will jump right in front of you someday.. haha… by the way, this guy is doing a pretty nice turn….

another another another long long long day day day…. gosh, i don’t know how i get the energy to do the things i’ve been doing these days. i feel like superman or something because i’ve been surfing, diving, shooting, swimming, playing, and playing. not to mention the hours spent on my computer… but you know what? i’m pretty happy doing what i’m doing…. tired, but happy…. so today was like every other day. surf, shoot, and play… left home before 6am and was looking into a pretty killer sunrise….

check out these happy kids. shun was so happy to ride on my boat along with seth and hayato. he was smiling the whole way out… the waves were solid 4′ for adults, and 6′ for the 2 kids. but they were charging hard. i wish i could show you the photos i took but sorry. have to wait. but just let me say that the waves were big doubling up barrels over dry reef. seth and shun were pushing each other and that was cool to see. it would be even cooler to see them in the future splitting a peak at backdoor/pipe….

i will only show you one photo from today. this is superman hayato. and this is real. here’s the story behind the photo: hayato can surf, dive, shoot photos, fish, and pretty much do everything. so i told him that i bet he couldn’t fly. he looked at me with a smile as he paddled back out and said “watch”…. shit, hayato can ficken fly too. so his new nickname is “SUPERMAN”….. sick photo yeah….
**oh, today was so long that i forgot we surfed big rights this afternoon. best day of the summer? yeah. uncrowded? yeah. was everybody happy? yeah. am i out there tomorrow morning? yeah. can you give me all the sets? yeah? haha…. see you out there. oh, wanted to say thanks to the boys out there today for sharing the waves with all japanese pro’s. kazuya, hayato, and keito were getting sick waves… please share tomorrow too ok? thanks guys….
**and last. sorry everybody for putting everything like meetings and emails aside. you must know by now that i’m too busy enjoying my job. i know you understand so just wanted to say thanks….

good morning. it’s 4:45am and pitch dark. kind of raining outside but i see a lot of waves in town. looks way bigger than yesterday but the winds might be funky. just like yesterday, surf allllllll daaaaayyyyyyy….. see you in the water….
**check out the groms ripping up queen’s waikiki….