good morning. 6:10am wednesday morning. wow, i had to look twice when i checked the waves. it’s packed!!! i’ve never seen so many people out this early in the morning before. 23 surfers out at rockpiles, 30+ out at bowls, and over 50+ at the park. crazy…. and you know what? the waves aren’t even that big. it looks smaller than yesterday afternoon… i see only one chest high set in the last 20min. but maybe it’s the low tide. i figure when the tide turns, the waves should get bigger and more consistent. i want to surf but not with all that guys out. maybe wait till everybody goes to work. or did everybody call in sick today? yeah, that’s hawaiian style. if the waves are up, nobody shows up to work…. the tell their bosses they came down with a cold and show up to work the next day with a nice tan and a big smile on their faces. come on… anyway, like holli says, “what ever works”…..

went to hanaki last night. do you know where that is? it’s in manoa market place and has all you can eat japanese food for $20/each. sashimi, poke, crab, tempura, sushi, desert, and pretty much everything you can imagine. i think when i go there, they lose money….

why? because i eat about 4 plates of crab, and all the other expensive stuff. no rice or starch. save that for the kids…. i ate enough crab to last me a while. thanks for dinner mom….
**had the two girls in front of the camera last week at bowls during the surf into summer contest. classic stuff.. check it out…. oh, i asked kelia to say a message to her fans. here it is “never take life for granted because you never know when it can be taken away from you. so live life to the fullest.” huh? when i was a teenager, my message next to my name in my high school yearbook was “drop the books and party”…. are you sure we’re related? haha…

good evening. checked the waves this morning and right before i left my house, i seen ants marching out to bowls and ala moana park. i guess the news was out on this new south swell. it was packed with surfers so i headed to diamond head. thank goodness for the road construction there so it kept surfers away. not me. i just pulled my car into the lookout and bummed out some tourist trying to stop for a photo. parked my car, and paddled out to lighthouse where it was firing… super good waves with a super good vibe… no longboarders, no drop ins, and no tourist. i had an awesome session….
**waves this evening came up even more. seen some solid overhead sets at bowls and the park. know what that means… yeah, big rights tomorrow…. see ya…

jeannie chesser is the bomb. super cool, rips, and doesn’t take shit. i’ve known her since i started surfing. she’s one of the best surfboard airbrush designers in the world. she’s battling cancer and has such a positive attitude about it. always smiling and enjoying life…. see her in the water, better not drop in…. check out jeannie’s website by CLICKING HERE….

and horay!!! obama wins!!! hillary clinton finally gave up and went home. obama made history for being the first black to lead the democratic party. and also made history for being the first person out of hawaii to almost lead our country. i said almost. one more obstacle but if obama becomes president, he told me that he’s going to start surfing… haha.. just joking….

and last, i called my travel agent today to book my ticket to japan. she told me it costs $1,269. what???? are you kidding??? so i came home and tried to figure out how i was going to get there. problem solved…. just call me “rocket man”….

good morning. waves in town pumping!!! finally the south swell is here. seen some head high sets at bowls with perfect conditions. and there’s not that many people out surfing today. i’m out of here… see you in the water….

i was at kapiolani park yesterday evening and was in awe on how beautiful it was. probably the most under rated park in the world…

the sunsets from there are pretty nuts….

and the the king wins again… kelly slater won the fiji pro. i watched the final yesterday and he was unstoppable. will he retire?? with a 900 point lead in the ratings, i don’t think so…. i just wish he’d stop saying he’s going to retire all the time..
**and last, check out this clip from snappers the other night. this is russ and ciara trinidad… uncle and niece…. they play there again this thursday night so be there or be square….