The good:  This summer has been the best in decades as far as the weather.  Everyday has been perfectly sunny with cool trade winds.  Pretty much every single day.

The bad:  This summer has been the worst in decades as far as waves.  It’s been small, inconsistent, and crowded.  The good thing is we keep searching for the best waves and somehow find it.

I’ve walked up and down this trail thousands of times for the past 38 years.  And it never gets easy.  

I’m not only watching my students, I’m watching the whole ocean.  And this is the best spot for that.  The only bummer is the hundreds of flies and ants that constantly attack me!    

Some of the boys were saying yesterday was the best conditions in a very long time.  I saw one minute rides. 

There is a very famous tree in Hawaii that not too many know about.  And you won’t believe which Emperor planted it 63 year ago.  Very historic!

We learned a lot about surfboard fins from Karim at Aloha Boardshop.  He has so much knowledge and it made me want to try some new ones.

Epic surf yesterday afternoon!

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

We paddled out super early this morning.  It was still dark!

Nakahodo-san surfing his new magic board into the sunrise. 

A few of my friends at Bowls asked me where we’ve been.  I told them, we’ve been doing Boot Camp at very challenging spots, and now we’re applying what we learned on one of the easiest waves on the island.  This is the calmest surf we’ve had in a very long time. 

So calm that we can enjoy the rainbows. 

Now my students understand why we surf challenging waves.  You learn the most on the challenging days so when the good days like this come, we perform.  

Calm and cool.  This is surfing…

After this session, we went to challenge ourselves again.  Bigger, windier, harder, but rewarding.