Living off the Aina

We walked on the empty white sandy beach early in the morning and saw some weird looking footprints.  

Oh, it’s the deer footprints!  Cool. 

Endless mountains filled with food.  On this island, if you want to eat, you go hunting.  

My cousin always teaches me about hunting techniques.  I just listen to all his knowledge and absorb it.  It’s deep Hawaiian culture that I’m learning from a true Hawaiian.  You won’t find this kind of knowledge in any kind of book.  

He also teaches me about the ocean.  This was the first time I ate this type of Uni.  He picked it, cleaned it, and gave me a piece to try.  It was the best ever!

July 8, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Made in where?  Where is CHIAN?

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds stronger to 25mph today.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Twin Lifesaver

Early morning and not expecting anything, but there was a little South swell starting to show.  I caught my best wave in weeks.  So did the girls and once they did, we were satisfied and done for the day.   

After countless hours of Boot Camp, everything is falling into place.  This is a perfect bottom turn.  Calm and cool.  

Bowls was very crowded today.  Everybody is hungry because the waves have been so small for a long time.  Be cool everyone.  

This past boat trip was crazy.  We jumped a big wave in the middle of the channel and the boat went almost vertical.  The gas was pouring out of the breather holes and one battery cable broke.  Boats aren’t supposed to be in a vertical position so it was a test.  Lucky no fire.  I had to check to check if my crew were still on board.  One was holding on for her life and the other was sleeping.  Haha.  Now something else broke in the opposite motor so I’ll be fixing it soon.  Having twin motors on a boat is a lifesaver.  Or shall I say, was a lifesaver…