Yesterday once more:  Troy passing by…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This is an ideal typhoon course for surf.  Just by looking at this, there will be big and perfect waves in the Philippines, Taiwan, Okinawa, and most of Japan.  If I were to chase this one, I would be waiting for the South/West swells on a tiny island off the West coast of Japan.

And I would be surfing with Matchi right here at this spot getting the barrels of our lives.  Unfortunately I wasn’t able to make this one, but I can assure you Matchi is getting barreled for me.  Thanks for the photos and thanks for thinking of me Matchi!

Although I can’t chase typhoons like before, I’m not in a too bad of a place.  This morning we woke up to unexpected overhead perfect waves.

Malcom’s one of the happiest regulars out there.  Always smiling and always getting good waves.

The waves were so glassy that it felt like we were in Indonesia.  John at Hawaii’s Macaroni’s.

Bigger than yesterday, many more waves than yesterday, and a lot less surfers than yesterday.  I guess that made today “Perfect!”

Rainbows everyday!

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!