This morning was pretty crowded for how little waves came.  You had to wait your turn but when it came, it was super fun.  

It’s the small days like this when big accidents happen.  I was in a very dangerous situation this morning and thank goodness nobody got hurt.  Just 2 boards being banged up instead of 2 bodies.  It could have been a lot worst.

Went back for Round 2 this afternoon.  More waves and a lot more rides.  Hashimoto-san looking sharp on his shortboard.

Nakahodo-san turning hard off the top.  Nice turn and nice spray!

Muscle memory is important.  When you can consistently take off on the right part of the wave, everything after will be smooth and easy.  Once this becomes muscle memory, surfing will get a lot better and you will go home a lot happier.  Anyway a big south swell is on the way so everybody be ready to GO-Naminori!

Last nights dinner.  Tender and juicy tako…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Super happy to surf this morning in the most perfect conditions.  It was much better than yesterday and so was the surfing.  Hashimoto-san looking sharp today.

He caught some really nice long rights.  Doing some amazing cutbacks along the way.

Another beautiful morning here in Hawaii.

Nakahodo-san wanted to ride the biggest sets of the day again and that’s just what he did.

Paddling hard and going with the flow.

As much as everyone else loves surfing, I love it too.

I was yelling “Go, Go, Go!”  She turned around, and went!

This is one of the coolest photos in a while.  This wave looks like Backdoor and that girl is having the best bottom turn of her life.

Round 2 at Diamond Head.  Very challenging wave but this will only make you better.  And I can see the results day by day…