DH Cliffs Locals…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This morning was good again.  The swell was a little tricky but if you found the right one, you will be happy.  

And the rights have been better than the lefts.  Carter on a nice right at Bowls. 

I’m in love with surfing again.  The feeling of connecting directly with the ocean feels wonderful.  But I still like flying on the foil too.  Some people say you can’t have everything, but I say you can!  Haha.  

I drove Mayuki down to the Airport and looked for a nice peaceful spot where nobody else was.  

Then I put on my mask and started scrubbing the bottom.  The water turned dirty dark brown and I could barely see.  I was scrubbing for over an hour and I thought about sharks a lot.  Not because I’m scared, but because I know that’s where the biggest sharks are.  And if something happened, nobody would even know I’m down there. 

It’s been a while since I spent time alone on Mayuki.  Thank you for bringing me back home…

Travel Culture:  Learn it, experience it, embrace it, and love it…

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds.
Sun, clouds, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!