Surfing is life…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This morning was beautiful!  The full moon shining over the ocean with pink clouds.

The conditions were good too.  And so was my new magic board!

Hiro-san is starting to ride the big sets.  He has more confidence than ever.  Just 4 months ago, he wouldn’t even attempt the sets at Bowls.  Now, he’s a brand new man!

Look how beautiful this view is.  When I’m behind taking the photo, I know I can put my camera away because it won’t get any better than this.

Well, I took it out again and got this last photo.  Nice bottom turn.

This is our first South swell and many more will be coming.  I’m so excited for this summer!!!

My students always forget something important I taught them.  I always said over and over, “never ride a wave and look at me because you will hit me!”  But the adrenaline kicks in and what do they do?  Yes, they look at me!

Then they fall and think it’s safe, BUT, their board is heading straight for my face.  Scary! 

Yes, I had to block twice in the same day.  I think I need to wear a helmet!  

With these strong off shore winds, you can see a hundred rainbows in a session.  So natural, and so beautiful. 

If you’re old like me, you probably remember these right?  These are fake candy cigarettes.  As a 5 year old kid, I use to put these in my mouth, blow the smoke like a cigarette, and then eat it.  They still sell it in Japan, but you’ll never ever see it in Hawaii again.  So yes, even though I never smoked cigarettes before, I lied.  I smoked these. And I actually bought some back for the kids but think it’s not a good idea to let them smoke it…