The waves came down from yesterday but it was still nice and big.  Although Bowls is a perfect wave, it wasn’t that perfect this morning.  Of every 20 waves, one was epic.  So you better have chosen the right one.  

I surfed 3 today rounds totaling 6 hours!  Right now my face is red, body is hot, dehydrated, and totally sunburnt.  But we only have one life so may as well maximize each precious day.  Tomorrow will be the same thing.

Hiro-san is back!  It’s only been 4 months since we surfed together but everything is different now.  He’s healthier, happier, stronger, and a lot more confident.  I couldn’t believe how nice and relaxed he was today.  So cool!

After 20 waves ridden, I was wondering when he was going to get tired.  I tired out before him.  Haha.

Morning surf run!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana overhead and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This is the lowest the tide gets in town.  By 8am, you could see a lot of reef above the ocean.  Be careful!

Our first Summer swell is here!  Solid overhead sets at Bowls!  So fun…

Lance Hookano on a medium one.

Ala Moana Beach park good too!

I went looking for the barrel.  And when I see one, I can’t help but smile.

Smiling before, during, and after.  The barrel gives me pleasure, escape, freedom, peace, tranquility, happiness, and ecstasy.

I caught this one, got barreled, went in, and smiled all the way home.  Then I saw my 12 missed calls, 23 missed text messages, and 8 emails.  OMG!  There went my ecstasy!