Summer has officially started.  A little early but nobody’s complaining.  Good to paddle out this morning with Lance Hookano, Uncle Ray, Matt, Bruce, and Carter.  I told the girls to paddle out earlier because once our group goes out, they won’t be catching any waves.  

Malcom again on another good wave.  He’s always in the right spot at the right time.  

The cool thing about Malcom is he’s laughing the whole way.  Smiling and laughing out loud.  I love it!  

Always good to surf with Lance Hookano because he’s the enforcer everywhere he goes.  From Backdoor to Bowls, everybody is on their best behavior when he’s out.  

If you see this guy in the ocean, get out of his way!  

Good to see my old time friend Matt Kenny surfing again.  His doctor told him he has to surf everyday from now on or he will die.  That’s the best prescription a doctor could order!  

And after years out of the water, he hasn’t forgotten a thing.  Good seeing you brother!  

The girls were out there hunting for waves like sharks.  And when they got one, it looked something like this.  Epic!  After this long marathon session, we surfed Diamond Head in the afternoon.  Boot Camp continues…

Lance Hookano at Bowls this morning.  The Enforcer!

I basically quit surfing for 3 years when I started to foil.  That turned to to be a very good break for me because now, I have the surf fever again.  Since the last 43 plus years, surfing has now brought me the highest levels of joy.  All I think about is “surf, surf, surf!”  And “barrels, barrels, barrels!”  

The morning crowd and afternoon crowd is totally different.  Different vibe, different personalities, and different experiences.  When I first paddled out in the afternoon, a surfer in his 60’s paddled by me and said “get out of my way!”  I’m positive he thought that I was a Japanese tourist.  I won’t say what I told him but it wasn’t nice.  

After a super good morning surf, I asked this girl “do you want to surf again in the afternoon?”  She looked at me and said “yes I do.”  So yes we did.

She has 5 of her own magic surfboards to choose from.  She surely chose the right one for this session.  So easy!