Soon, a true documentary about the discovery of the island of Nias is coming out.  It’s going to be about the discovery, and also the change ever since.  It’s told through the eyes of a local girl that grew up in Nias and became the first female surfing champion.  It will be about the positives and negatives of what surf discovery involves.  I heard there is going to be never seen before footage of the first surfers who rode those perfect barreling rights.  Footage from Storm Riders and Asian Paradise.  I can’t wait to see it.

After coming back from Sumbawa and seeing what happened in the 30 years since the first guys surfed it, I can already sense the theme of this documentary.  Yes, there are positives and negatives.  I’ll get into that later but for now, imagine a group of surfers discovering your pristine and isolated island, then turning it into something you may not like.  Some will like it and some won’t.  Honestly, I didn’t like what I saw in Sumbawa.  I prefer it like it was 30 years ago…

Local Nightlife.  Family and friends under the stars…

Good morning 4:15am.
HIGH SURF WARNING!!!
North shore 20′ and dangerous. Waimea Bay and outer reefs only.
Ala Moana waist high and maybe some West swells later.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I spent all of today’s Thanksgiving day with family.  From one party to another, I left with the feeling of gratitude.

Joshua and Seth were going to help me with the ice bath today.  I tried over and over but couldn’t pass 30 seconds.  It shocked my body so much and it felt like my body was going to shut down.  Everybody says it’s mental and takes time.  I’m willing to put in the time because of the health benefits.  After I gave up for today, my little niece jumped in and stayed in for 3 minutes.  OMG!

The family is growing and growing.  Lot’s of food, lots of conversation, lots of stories, and lots of love.  Thanksgiving is a day to be grateful and I can’t express how grateful I am.  Starting tomorrow, I have to burn off the 10 pounds I gained today.  One pound at a time, and one wave at a time.  Surfing tomorrow!