Small waves again today so went to get some exercise on the foil.  Nobody out so had the whole ocean to myself again.

When I got back to the beach, a tourist asked me if I had a motor on my foil.  Haha.  It’s pretty crazy how fast you can go on one of these.

The waves were only knee high but when you’re on a foil, the speed, flow, and adrenaline is like surfing an overhead wave.  My foil is old so I’m going to start looking for a faster one!

I came home and dug out one of Seth’s old surfboards.  It’s going to be a present for some lucky kid.

Going through old photos.  This was from one of our many Mentawai trips.  Tokura-san at Hollow Trees.

Toda-san on the SUP at Lances Rights.

And Matsuo-san getting barreled at Riffles.  This is the best and longest right barrel in the world.  It only gets this good once in every 5 years so we were very lucky to be there on this memorable day.  None of us will ever forget it.

Diamond Head to Koko Head…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore head high from the North.
East shore double overhead from the wind.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 30mph.
Sun, showers, clouds, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I really wanted a work out this morning so I took out my foil.  Nobody was out at Bowls so I had it to myself.  I caught my first wave and it lasted 2 minutes totaling 6 waves.  Then my second wave the same.  So in 4 minutes and 12 waves later, I was exhausted, sweating, and content.  One of my best foil sessions in a while.

I love days like today.  Nobody around and super fun if you have the right board and right mind.

Passed by Diamond Head on the way home and was surprised how fun it looked.  Nobody was out and there were a lot of waves.  I sat there for 30 minutes trying to encourage myself to surf.  My mind was saying “go” but my body was saying “no.”  My body won.

I was imagining how many waves I would catch, and what exactly I would do on each wave.  Image training!  

Finding more photos from my travel folder.  Swimming with a huge whale shark in the Maldives was lucky, and a great experience.