I saw Ronnie paddling for a set.  He’s in the perfect take off zone.  I was thinking it was going to be an amazing ride!  

As I was watching, I saw a young surfer girl making a big mistake.  She was trying to paddle to the shoulder to get out of Ronnie’s way.  BUT, she should have actually paddled the opposite way to get out of his way.  

Then she took her time duck diving under the wave.  Sticking her ass up too long.  She should have duck dove and brought her ass down faster so it wouldn’t get in the way.  

See Ronnie?  See the ass?  A lot of inexperienced surfers will run that ass over with all 3 fins.  But Ronnie is experienced and knows it’s not worth the risk.  So he starts to straighten out his surfboard, thus giving up on that perfect wave.

And because of that, he missed the most epic barrel!  I see this all the time and I wish someone would teach people what to do in situations like this.  It’s just a matter of time until someone gets hurt.  PADDLE AROUND!!!!

Go Reina-chan!!!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Handa-san came to Hawaii for the first time, surfed for the first time, and saw a rainbow for the first time.  I’m pretty sure he likes Hawaii a lot now.  Haha.  

The waves were very clean this morning.  Very inconsistent but when a good one came, it was excellent!  

Handa-san is from a secret river mouth in Shizuoka.  It’s so secret that I can’t say where it is.  It’s somewhere I love to go, I have friends there, and some of my best memories in Japan are from there.  I hope to be surfing there this Typhoon season!  

Nice turns and great surfing today!  Happy first time to Hawaii day!