September 6, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  Jerome at first light…

Good morning 4:40am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Camouflage Time

I just got home from a very long day and was wondering what to eat for dinner.  Then Nephew came over to drop off a fresh piece of ahi for sashimi.  He said Seth and Benji caught a couple big ahi’s so this is as fresh as it can get.  Made some rice and miso soup and had the best meal!  Thank you boys!

Another beautiful morning at Bowls.  Smaller waves but still super fun.

The 2 girls catching waves as one goes right, and one goes left.  They learned how one wave can make two people happy.

Everyday we try to make our surfing better.  Today we were learning how to use our toes and heals when turning.  It’s crazy how fast you can see the results.

When I caught this tako, it squirted black ink in my face and turned its own body black to match the ink color.

At this point, I can’t see the tako anymore as it starts swimming down to the bottom of the ocean.  Once it reaches the reef, the body color automatically changes into a light sandy color to blend in.  It literally disappears right in front of your eyes.  Pretty smart!

 

September 5, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

My happy place…

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and hot today.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!