I’ve been looking around the world for the next surf trip destination and I’m having a hard time finding the perfect place.  It’s either too far, too expensive, too crowded, too dangerous, or too unpredictable.  I know there is somewhere out there so it’s going to take a little more research.  We’re looking for a place where we can surf the spot all to ourselves.  That’s most important.

Looking back at last weeks boat trip here in Hawaii.  We had the spot all to ourselves.  It was close, it was cheap, , nobody out, it was safe, and it was predictable.  Now that’s hard to beat…

A morning nap before the hunt…

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana chest high and coming up.
Diamond Head shoulder high and coming up.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The waves were good this morning if you could be patient.  And since we were patient, the waves were good!

Purple is the magic board color today.  Smooth and easy to ride.

I think my new color is purple because I like the way it flows with the clear ocean.

When people say that the waves are too small to surf, it’s probably because they’re using the wrong board.  It’s never too small if you have magic boards.

Everyday I observe the lineup.  Localism vs. Tourism.  If you know the rules, it will be very peaceful.  If you don’t, it will be war.  A war where locals always win everywhere in the world.

Deco-san caught some really nice waves today.  This one I was riding right behind her watching the perfect ride.

Smooth bottom turn.

Another happy purple magic surfer.  Flowing with the 6’0 and keeping warm with the 2mm Dove long john.  The perfect combination for today.

Tokura-san with a nice wave at Bowls rights.  Classic forever…