The other day my life almost changed.  I took off on a wave trying to get the normal photo from behind.  I do this hundreds of times but this one was different.  The guy fell, shot his board at me, and I was in total disbelief.  

I see the board coming towards me very quickly, I try to stick my hand out but it was too late.

I failed to block it and his surfboard went under my surfboard.  I was going pretty fast so when I ran it over, my board felt like it his a wall and stopped immediately.  I flew over the front head first.

Low tide mornings means it’s very shallow.  I thought I was going to hit my head on the reef for sure.  All I was thinking was “oh no, I’m going to the hospital today.”  

Luckily my head missed the reef by millimeters.  I pushed off the reef with my hand and the wave pushed me down even further.  I surfaced with no injuries.  I was a lucky man that day.

The other guys surfboard didn’t look too good after that.  That was from the fin of my surfboard.  Luckily it wasn’t his head right?  After this accident, I told myself that I won’t shoot photos from behind again.  Then the next day, I was doing the same thing.  Haha.

Yesterday once more:  New South swell is here!  Go girl!!!

Good morning 3am.
South swell is here.
Ala Moana shoulder high and getting bigger.
Diamond Head head high and getting bigger.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Started off early this morning surfing Bowls.  Really clean conditions as Hashimoto-san caught the best wave of his life!  Thank you boys for not dropping in on him.  He was so stoked!

Backside off the lip!

You can feel the swell picking up little by little.  It was much bigger and better than yesterday morning as you can see.

Round 2 was this afternoon with perfect off shore winds.  The waves were super good and only a couple surfers out.  Look at this beautiful wave that the Energizer Bunny caught.

Nakahodo-san was practicing for the big swell this weekend.  I have a feeling it’s going to get double overhead by Monday.

Focused, confident, and smooth.

Pushing harder and harder and going faster and faster.

Good positioning is important on a wave.  If you can put yourself in the power part of the wave, the speed will follow.

Izumisawa-san surfing in Hawaii for the very first time.  Like all first timers, you will be stoked like this.  And maybe smiling all the way.

A very energetic surfer that wants to travel the world to surf.  And that’s her plan!