good evening. another beautiful day here in hawaii. so so for waves. they finished up the womens event today at haleiwa. congratulations to winner megan abubo from hawaii and runner up layne beachley from australia. they were killing in the final. good womens surfing…. more mens rounds coming tomorrow. south swell on the way too but we’ll just have to wait and see. bumped into some friends on the north shore and they are calling this winter the worst in history so far…. pray for surf!!!
was checking out an island i’m planning to buy someday. it’s down to these two. got a sick perfect sandbar right during the summer and the diving is excellent during the winter….
and this island has a bank on the outer reef that holds 10′ clean surf in the summer. and during the winter, that same bank holds big tuna’s. can you help me decide? just don’t drop in because both are for sale….
my friend sent me this sunset photo of yesterday evening…. nice!!
and another friend sent me this sunset photo from yesterday evening from another spot. nice!!
this was diamond head cliffs at 2pm today. 2 guys out and super fun. just like the good old days…
got a flat tire? take your motorcycle down the street, have the local guy fix it old school way, have some little piglets come see if he’s doing a good job, pay $1 for the job, and eat a piglet on the way out… only in the philippines…
and last, the kids in china learning at a young age how to draw their country’s flag. how many kids in america know how to draw the american flag? how many stripes? how many stars? i bet a lot of you don’t know….
My Dream Island…
Bali McDelivery 24 hours…..
good morning. 6:45am wednesday morning. yup, morning sickness around the island. north shore is 3-5′ and bumpy everywhere. 2 surfers out at rocky’s and nobody at pipe so it must be shitty. town got some smal ankle snappers and hardly nobody out. small south swell on the way, small north/west swells on the way. nothing special. better work and take off when the real swells hit the north shores. they are running a few mens heats and are finishing up the womens contest at haleiwa today. go check it out…. blue crush… aloha…
the mcdonald’s in indonesia has a little different menu. one thing they have that we don’t have is fried chicken. it’s super good too….
they have a seperate desert section. 20 cents for an ice cream cone. 50 cents for a McFlurry. cheap for hawaii, but expensive for indonesia…
big mac meal= $3
so for all you paranoid travelers that don’t want to eat out, or don’t want to go out, for reasons like terrorist or food poisoning. call 140045 24 hours a day and somebody on their bike will deliver your happy meal for you…. and to all you travelers that want an adventure, eat where the locals eat. do what the locals do, and stay away from where all the tourist go. that’s how to travel….
Don't Mess with Wild Elephants….
good evening. pulled up to lani’s this morning and the waves were going off. only 5 guys out and so many rights were peeling across unridden. score!!! it was my first surf at lani’s this year and i forgot how fun that wave is. but honeslty, the water was dirty so i was also thinking about that 15′ tiger shark that hangs out there. and for the first time, i didn’t see the turtles there which made it more scary. did they know something i didn’t???? anyway, went to check out the contest and watched a couple of heats. gosh, the level of surfing is so high now. the judging system is awesome. they score on turns and not on length of ride. what a change. when i surfed contests, they judged on the guy doing head snaps all the way to the beach. and the guys doing big turns on the outside lost. i saw a guy today do 5 weak turns to the beach and got scored a 3.5 out of 10. then i seen sunny garcia do a huge turn on the outside and get a 7.3. that’s how surfing should be. it’s good to see surfers win contests more on ability, and not so much on stragegy. can’t wait to watch the top seeds surf. as for tomorrow, i’m sleeping in because i know it’s going to be morning sickness in the morning. so far, it’s the worst winter in the history of the north shore… but probably the best spring 2008 ever? i think and hope so….
imagine coming to hawaii for the first time. then imagine going for your first surf in hawaii on the north shore. coming down the hill, there must be so much things going on in your mind. i still get butterflies in my stomach when i see the surf coming down the hill. i wonder what jun, masaki, and chin must have felt like???
another awesome lunch at my favorite plate lunch place…..
we took a safari trip in south africa back in 2000 during our surfing life surf trip. it was just like the discovery channel. we were looking for elephants and when we seen them, i got out of the car to take a photo. they were huge!!! then i saw a baby elephant next to his mother and i tried to go closer to get a photo. the mother turned to me, looked me in the eye, and started coming towards the car. i freakin freaked out. some of the guys in the car were pissed at me because if that elephant wanted to destroy our car with all of us in there, she could have. i felt stupid. don’t mess with elephants…
this is not a photo from a korean drama. this is a photo i found in “pictures of the week” of a guy in xi’an,china who took a girl hostage. this is real. this worker took his employers girlfriend as a hostage and demanded $400 from his boss. only $400? i would be bummed out if somebody kidnapped me and only wanted $400 to let me go… that’s too cheap man….
here’s another picture of the week. gosh, i wouldn’t mind doing that. except i’m afraid of heights… haha…
**CLICK HERE FOR HIGHLIGHTS OF DAY 2 AT THE HALEIWA PRO…..