A beautiful day on top of the mountain.  Can you see Molokai and Lanai?  Sweet!

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 3-5′ and perfect. 20-25′ tomorrow and Eddie will GO!
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and clean.
No wind this morning becoming North/East tomorrow.
Cool morning becoming a warm sunny day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

To surf a perfect wave on a Sunday afternoon is a treat.  And to surf it for over 2 hours with nobody out is even better.  It’s cool because you can sit anywhere in the ocean you want, you can choose any wave you want, and you can ride it any way you want.  You can even surf naked if you wanted to.  It’s total FREEDOM!!!   

We surfed Bowls earlier in the morning but this secret spot was double the size in the afternoon.  

Just us 2 kids screaming and yelling and having the best time of our lives.  It was like our little surf trip!  

And of course, we went to sleep early and got up early.  And guess what?  Nobody out again this morning.  Three hours of perfect glassy waves.  Why go to Bali when Bali is right here in your back yard.  Score!

**By the way, if you didn’t hear yet, the Eddie Aikau is ON this Wednesday.  We’re expecting 50′ face high waves with thousands of eyes on the beach.  Don’t miss it!!!

IT’S ON!!!  Eddie will GO on Wednesday, January 11!  Go Joshua Moniz!!!