Classic Bronco…

Good morning 3:45am.
Everywhere very small for next 7 days.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This morning I let the girls paddle out while I filmed from the boat.  It was rocking so much that I was getting seasick.  Yuck…

Don’t want to say where we surfed today because it was good and pretty empty.  Hoping it’s the same tomorrow.

A perfect glassy day.  Summer is here!

Round 2 was to Sandy Beach.  Thought we’d do something different.

No surfboard and no fins.  We were going to bodysurf!

Sandy Beach looked like a postcard today.  Blue sky, white sandy beach, and crystal clear water.

This is where I got my very first barrel when I was 12 years old.  Thousands of barrels and decades later, this is still my favorite place to be.  It’s my roots…

Trying to capture different angles is exciting.  If I was swimming with my swim fins on, this shot would be relatively easy to get.  But I’m not swimming, I’m surfing.  So paddling through a big hollow wave like this while duck diving with one hand is challenging.  Sometimes the wave sucks me back over and I get pounded, but it’s always worth the shot.

And if one of my friends come flying by, I’ll take an even bigger risk because risk equals reward. This girl was stoked when I sent her this.  So beautiful!