Day 2 of 2023 and this is looking like my routine.  Just give me any ocean and I’ll be there in the early morning.  Looking and loving the Honolulu city lights.

And my 2 students getting better and better.

Hiro-san only surfs in Hawaii which is pretty cool.  I don’t know how he can paddle so well after months out of the water.  If I don’t surf for a week, my arms get tired really fast.

When the morning sun shines over Diamond Head, the day becomes another kind of beautiful.

Round 2 this afternoon at Ala Moana was good!  look how beautiful this wave is!  When you have a magic board, anything is possible.

And when you have a magic board, your surfing level will rise.  And when it rises, everything else in life rises too.  It’s the best feeling in the world!

Well, I got 4 sessions in so far in 2023 and we’re only on day 2 of the year?  Sweet!!!

Ever since I got my first barrel at 11 years old, I’ve been searching and searching for more.  It doesn’t matter if it’s on a wave or under a tree, I’ll always pull in!  

I was watching Darren looking for a barrel too.  

Yesterday afternoon was FUN!  Nice swells and lots of smiles.  

In the past 5 years on New Years Day, I’ve been in the Emergency Room twice from surfing accidents.  This year was almost my third time.  Whew, this one almost hit me in the eye…

1.1.23 Speedblur…

Good morning 4am.
North shore BIG! 8-12′ and growing.
Ala Moana waist to chest high sets and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!