From my kitchen window.  Absolutely stunning!

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

HT’s/Hollow Trees/Lances Rights are all different names, but is all the same spot.  It’s located in the Mentawai Islands and is probably one of the best right barrels in the world.  On a small day, there will be 50 guys fighting for waves.  Yes, 50 guys all paying thousands of dollars traveling half way around the world.  Sounds crazy right?  BUT when it’s big like this, it’s a different story.  You have to be an advanced surfer willing to take risks.  It’s very powerful, very shallow, and very dangerous.  Pulling into the barrel is easy, making it out over the shallow reef is the hard part.  They call the inside reef the “surgeon’s table” because if you hit it, you will need a surgeon to stitch you up.  And the nearest surgeon is in the city of Padang which is 14 hours away by boat.  This particular day was HUGE!  It was breaking way outside so you’re taking off on 20′ faces, bottom turning, and pulling into the biggest and best barrels you can ever imagine.  1000% commitment. This was one of the most memorable waves of my life.  I rode a 6’8 that  day and it didn’t survive that session.  Thank goodness it was only my board…

Japanese surfers are the coolest.  Very kind, very respectful, and very happy.  In the morning when I pick them up, everyone is shy and nervous.  But when I drop them off, it’s the total opposite!  Happy!

This is the best office in the world. 

Shooting photos from behind the wave is my favorite angle.  It’s pretty dam beautiful.

Living in the mountains has it’s perks.  No need to water the plants because the rain water is more than enough.  All you have to do is plant a seed, watch it grow, and enjoy the colors.

This is called “Heliconia.”  It can look fresh like this for a month.  Can’t complain coming home to this everyday huh.  That’s country living…