March 9, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  OMG!  Itai!!!

Good morning 3:50am.
North shore 4-6′ and bumpy.
Ala Moana almost flat and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Happy International Woman’s Day!

First of all, I want to wish all the women in the world “Happy International Woman’s Day!  Today I was trying to be nice to the girls and they didn’t like it.  I was complementing their mistakes and they knew that was bullshit.  Haha.

We all had longboards so we paddled over to a super shallow reef.  So shallow that every wave had a barrel.  And since nobody was out, we got to practice and practice.

I was on a 11′ longboard showing the girls how to get barreled.  Then I sat in the channel and watched them try.

It’s really hard to get barreled on a big longboard because the board goes too fast.  The trick is to slow it down.  I also didn’t allow the girls to wear leashes today.  The reason is to be aware of your surroundings.

All good barrel riders know how to drag their hand in the wave to slow down for the barrel.  So that’s what we practiced today.  And wave by wave, the girls started to figure it out.

I’m 100% certain that these girls will be good barrel riders very soon.  And when they get their first barrel, their life will never be the same.

This morning was a very low tide.  So shallow that your fins will hit while riding a wave.

And sitting on your board, your feet will hit the reef.  Watch out for the sea urchins!

Round 2 at Diamond Head.  Fun waves, uncrowded, deep, and very peaceful.

Round 1 Under the Rainbow

Cold and colorful morning!