Lance Hookano at Bowls this morning. The Enforcer!
Barrels of Sun and Fun
I basically quit surfing for 3 years when I started to foil. That turned to to be a very good break for me because now, I have the surf fever again. Since the last 43 plus years, surfing has now brought me the highest levels of joy. All I think about is “surf, surf, surf!” And “barrels, barrels, barrels!”
The morning crowd and afternoon crowd is totally different. Different vibe, different personalities, and different experiences. When I first paddled out in the afternoon, a surfer in his 60’s paddled by me and said “get out of my way!” I’m positive he thought that I was a Japanese tourist. I won’t say what I told him but it wasn’t nice.
After a super good morning surf, I asked this girl “do you want to surf again in the afternoon?” She looked at me and said “yes I do.” So yes we did.
She has 5 of her own magic surfboards to choose from. She surely chose the right one for this session. So easy!
March 2, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report
Yesterday once more: Bowls firing!
Good morning 4am.
North shore small but coming up later today.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!