Another early morning start for Round 1.  Getting ready in the dark and paddling out as the sun rises is absolutely the best feeling.  

I’ve been watching sunrises and sunsets for the past 35 years of my life.  And it only gets better.  

We’ve been surfing so much that this girl is advancing pretty fast.  Now she’s riding a 6’1 easily.  She tried it last time she was here and could barely paddle it.  Now she’s taking off on her own and doing cutbacks on it.  So cool!  

Calm and focused.  A couple weeks on this board and then she’s going to ride even a shorter shortboard.  She’s feeling alive!    

The clouds this morning looked pretty cool.  

Round 2 Boot Camp at Diamond Head.  The girls did excellent out there today.  They knew where to get the best waves, and they rode it perfectly.  They both caught about 30 waves total.  Success!

Go-Naminori Forever…

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Remember when I told you that this girl will get barreled someday?  Well, her surfing is getting much better so it’s just a matter of time.  This morning at Bowls, the waves were perfect!  The swell direction was finally normal again so the lefts were barreling.  On this wave, I was yelling “go, go, go!!!”  I thought this could be the chance of her getting barreled.  Everything was lookin great!

Then she got barreled!!!!  Well, not barreled like she would have wanted to, but she’s still in the barrel.  Haha.  Next time I hope she’s standing on her feet when the barrel goes over her like this.  We’re getting there girl!

There have been so many turtles recently.  They will just swim right up to you.

Round 2 was at Diamond Head.  Very wild, very challenging, and very humbling.  The girls won’t give up until they master this spot.  That takes time so that’s why we’re there practicing almost everyday.

Back to the Pipeline Pro.  Just making sure Seth’s boards were waxed up properly.  I get nervous doing this.