Blue barrel take off!  Good girl!!!

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Atsushi Inamura at Bowls this morning.  The waves were 3-5′ and perfect.  The best swell direction so every wave was as good as it gets.

So stoked to see cool Japanese like Atsushi that respects the locals.  And that’s why the locals respect him and his surfing.

This morning we paddled out to the “super full blue moon.”

The girls took out their big boards and caught the biggest waves of this swell.  Taking off so easily and popping up at the top of the wave getting ready for the long ride down.

This is the fastest you will go down a wave like this.  This girl ended up riding her best wave of her life this morning and it wasn’t this wave.  It was a perfect left set wave at Bowls!

Round 2 with the boys and girls.  Everyone cheering on each other and everyone riding perfect waves this afternoon.  The waves were still pumping with epic conditions.  The 2 boys ended riding the best waves of their lives too.  Everybody scored today!

There was a monk seal sleeping on the beach before we paddled out.  He must have woken up because he decided to swim right past us as we were waiting for a wave.  So cool to see things like this.

I’m trying to teach this girl how to hunt for tako.  So far, she can find the tako, but is still practicing trying to get it out of the hole.  It takes time and once you figure it out, your success rate will be around 90%.  Until then, it could be 0%.

No tako this time, maybe next time.  Haha.

Getting the tako out of the hole is a little tricky.  It will push rocks in front of you, it will camouflage itself, or it will shoot black ink on you.  You just have to be patient which is hard to do when the tako is so deep under water.  One breath, one tako…

I tell the girls that they can drop in on me anytime they want.  BUT, don’t miss the wave!  If they miss the wave, I’ve been making them pay for it by giving them a salt water shower.  Haha.  

Every single day, these locals surf Diamond Head.  They are kind, respectful, happy, and rippers.  The coolest thing about surfing Diamond Head is that there is absolutely no drama.  Only good times…

Surfers are very street smart.  They will find a way to do anything and everything.  How genius is this?  Nobody has an arm long enough to put sunscreen on your back, but in this case, you don’t need one.  Just figure it out.  Haha.