Yesterday once more:  Epic Bowls!

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana overhead and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm after morning showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This swell arrived on time.  Head high with some overhead sets and perfect conditions.  Uncle Barry on a smooth one.

Perfect conditions all morning long.

Just like every spot in the world, the early mornings are local surfer time.  Ride a few good waves and go straight to work.  That’s Hawaiian style.

Kyle dropping in on Malcom.  Kyle surprised, and Malcolm smiling the whole way.

I fell on a wave and the impact of the wave smashed my cheek into my teeth.  That was the first time in my life something like that happened to me.  I thought I broke my teeth but it was just a big cut inside my mouth.  Blood gushing out but kept on surfing.

15 minutes of bleeding and then it disappeared.  The ocean fixes everything.   A very happy and humbling day…

Round 1: Overhead and good! The swell has arrived!!!