Yesterday afternoon at Bowls was very interesting.  It was offshore and glassy when we got out, then an onshore storm came.  Then everybody went it.  Then it cleared up and got really good again.  Then another storm came with the onshore winds.  The conditions were changing by the minute.  That was cool!  

Here’s some advice for surfers.  If you hit the reef, hit your board, or think something may have happened to your surfboard, you should check your board immediately.  Not the next day before you paddle out to an epic session.  Got it?

North winds means beautiful clear and cool mornings…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 4-6′ and junky.
Ala Moana knee high and offshore.
Diamond Head waist high and offshore.
Cold North winds at 15mph.
Sunny and cool.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Yes, we knew Diamond Head would be the best spot this morning so that’s where we surfed.  We got there in the dark and it was freezing cold.  You have have some passion to surf cold mornings like this.

Paddle, paddle, paddle!!!  Photo from foil drone.

Cutback, cutback, cutback!!!  This is how you do it!

Round 2 with Awaji-san.  Super cool guy that loves to surf.

The waves were challenging but his rides were smooth.  

I put this girl back on the longboard as part of the Boot Camp program.  It will only make her better.  

I think being able to jump back and forth on any type of board will make you a better surfer.  That’s why we do this and the results will show.  Just wait and see…