Yesterday afternoon we went for Round 2.  Today’s lesson was about “The Rock Dance.”  One of my favorite secret spots that will never get crowded.  The reason is because it’s so dangerous to enter.  The rocks are sharp, slippery, and waves smashing up upon it.  Timing is everything.  If you time it wrong, you will get smashed by a wave onto the rocks.  If you fall, you will get smashed by a wave onto the rocks.  So yes, it’s very dangerous and you least worry is dinging your surfboard.    

And it’s even harder coming out.  Now you have to worry about sharp slippery rocks, big crushing waves, and sea urchins poking your feet.  Once again, your least worries is dinging your surfboard.  But I love this place.

I don’t think we’ll ever go to the West side again.  It was just way too crowded and way too aggressive.  You literally have to be a hunter.  If not, you will be hunted.  

Three guys on one wave?  Not fun at all.  Never again…

Yesterday once more:  Today once more?

Good morning 4am.
North Shore still big at 8-10′.
Ala Moana still small at flat to knee high.
Diamond Head knee high.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It’s kind of hard to predict where will be good on days like today.  North shore too big and the South shore too small.  We first went to check Diamond Head and it was beautiful, but flat.

Watched the sky turn orange, watched the view of Molokai and Lanai islands in the background.  It was here when I thought we should take a gamble.  Got back in the car and headed to the other side of the island.

We arrived right in time for the sunrise.  And guess what?  The waves were super good!

I said “hurry and go out because the waves are good and there are only 4 surfers out.  It will get crowded soon when everyone finds out.”

The North winds are cold and crispy.  Blowing offshore and grooming the ocean like an oil painting.  Only a few times a year this place gets clean like this.

As the morning went along, the waves got bigger and better.

I’m still wondering where everybody was today?

Yes, it was this amazing!  Sorry you missed it.  Maybe tomorrow?  Maybe not…