Going flying today…

Good morning 4am.
North shore shoulder high and good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Offshore in the morning and onshore later.
Rainy day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We drove out super early to the North shore this morning.  Surfed a secret spot that was overhead and really good.  Long rights with an inside barrel section.  Not too many surfers and plenty of waves.  So happy to surf some powerful waves!  Tomorrow morning should be good again.

Since the family is growing and growing, the celebrations are becoming more frequent and frequent.  There’s a birthday almost every week recently.  But nobody’s complaining to get together and have good family quality time.

This kid is so cute!  He acts like a teenager already.  Haha.  

Happy 1st Birthday Lava girl!  Love you!  Who’s birthday is next?

Everybody says the ice bath is mental.  I disagree because my mental is pretty strong when it comes to pain.  The cold is different.  I almost froze to death a few times in the snow mountains.  I almost froze to death surfing in South Africa too.  And after the first cold winter living in Japan, I moved back to Hawaii before the next one.  It’s something about the cold that my body can’t tolerate.  But the only way to get stronger is to keep on trying right?

Tony taught me how to surf big waves by taking me out to huge surf that I wasn’t ready for.  So I wouldn’t be surprised if he closed the lid of the freezer on me.  Haha.