Surfed a really nice wave this morning.  Chest high and nobody out.  Lots of rides and lots of practice.  After that, I went up to hang out at the house my Grandpa built.  He built this house back in the 1960’s and it’s still so beautiful.  As you can see, it’s Japanese inspired.

My Grandpa put in a big glass window in the living room so they could see the green mountains and valley growing every day.  The glass is so big that sometimes birds try to fly through this window.

As you can see, my Grandparents were inspired by Japan.  There are shoji doors and windows in every room.  My Grandma loved it so my Grandpa built it.

This is my favorite place.  The lanai overlooking the Nuuanu stream.  Cool wind in the hair, fresh air from the valley, and the sound of water running down the stream.  It’s pure ZEN!

I always think about my Grandparents when I come here.  They worked hard, never complained, were kind, and I miss them so much.  Okagesama de…

We were surfing at Bowls yesterday and a board came floating by.  The wind was so strong so I thought it must have come from Waikiki.  The surfer probably lost his board and swam to the beach because you would think it will get pushed in by the waves.  But, the wind plays a factor too so the strong winds actually blew back out to sea.  Thirty minutes later, I see a guy swimming from the beach all the way out to Bowls because he saw me with his board.  

He said he lost it at Rockpiles rights which is pretty far.  I don’t feel sorry for surfers that lose their boards if they don’t surf with a leash.  That’s life.  The lucky thing for him is he got to catch another wave in.  Haha.  

The government sent out free Covid tests to everyone.  I got mine yesterday in the mail.

I checked the expiration date it already expired back in January 2023.  OMG!  

I bought this surfboard from a lady who had it sitting in her garage for the past 40 years.  It’s treasure!  I took it to my friends factory to get it refinished.  You will be surprised to see who shaped this board.  It’s probably 50 years old and priceless!

Yesterday Once More:  The Golden Hour…

Good morning 5:20am.
North shore chest high and bumpy.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and bumpy.
Diamond Head head high and really bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!