Indonesia is so big that if you know a local surfer, maybe, or maybe not, he will tell you about a secret spot.  In this case, he showed us a secrets spot where there was no surfers, no concrete, and nobody around for miles.  I sat on the beach watching our group enjoying our special session.  

Deco san has a very good ocean sense.  She would go out to any spot and find good waves.  And once on it, ride it very well.

She’s riding a Rob Machado custom board that looks like magic.

Kimura-san and his happy face.  Haha.

Tokura-san cool as always.

Matsu hooked on the foil.

Yesterday once more: October South Shore Festival

Good morning 3:40am.
North shore waist high and clean.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds so nice conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

From April to September, the trade winds are consistent so every morning will have some texture on the ocean surface.  But come October, the winds shift as the storms past North of our islands.  There will be days with winds, and there will be days without winds.  And without winds, the ocean looks like glass.  This morning was one of those glassy mornings.

October still proving to be the best month of the year for the South shore.  

Hope these swells and glassy conditions continue all year long…

I found this painting under my house.  It was my Grandparents that has been in the family for a very long time.  

An artist by the name of Sunao Hironaka gave this to my Grandparents in 1961.  OMG, this is 62 years old!  If you know this person or any of his family members, I’d love to give it to them.