Cool morning sky.

Then endless cloud.

Barak got the barrel of the day.

Malcom the style master.

Dean on the drop knee stance.

October is best month of the Summer!

Drive by Tennis Courts:  OMG, very crowded!

Good morning 3:50am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sun, clouds, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another perfect morning with cool clouds and an amazing sunrise.

I paddled out to Bowls and it was so good!  Perfect chest high sets with the cleanest conditions all month.  I caught 2 really good sets and as I was paddling back out, I thought to myself “umm, with this swell and conditions, somewhere else must be good too.”  Then I remembered!  I caught a tiny inside wave and paddled my fastest back to my car, jumped in, and left the parking lot still dripping wet.

I totally forgot I have a boat!!!  I jump on Mayuki and went full speed to my secret spot.  I was so excited because I knew it would be good, and best of all, uncrowded.

I get there and nobody was out.  Good!  Then the first wave started to approach the lineup and it peeled like a perfect Indonesia wave.  Great!  This first wave was barreling the whole way as my heartbeat started to pump.  I grabbed my board, paddled to the lineup, and had the best session ever.  After one hour of consistent pumping point rights, I was content.  I love boat trips!