The winds became calm again, therefore making totally epic morning conditions.  This morning was absolutely perfect!  

I saw a lot of empty barrels.  

When ever I surf at Bowls, I wonder how it would be being a goofy footer.  I’m pretty sure I’d get barreled on every wave.   Or at least I’d try on every wave.  

Beautiful!  

I’m still digging surfboards our from under my house.  Getting rid of these guns ranging from 7’0-8’2.  I’ve ridden the biggest and best waves of my life on these.  

I found this single fin from the 1970’s.  Do you know who Andries is?  I don’t.  Anyway, I’m going to wax this board up and try it out!

Mason Fukunaga @ Japan.  Photo:  Todaheli

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another beautiful day in paradise.  We paddled out a little later this morning as the waves started to get better.

Yamashiro-san is from Okinawa and is surfing in Hawaii for the first time.  He was surfing so good!

I followed him on a couple waves screaming from behind as usual.  Haha.

Yamashiro-san is a cool Okinawan.  Haisai!

I came home and started to upgrade to my new phone.  It’s 2 hours in and it’s still trying to sync.  Past my bedtime so will have to wait for tomorrow.  No phone tonight?  Yeah!!!