Jerome@Bowls.  Smooth surfing…

Good morning 5:20am.
North shore 3-5′ and little bumpy.
Ala Moana waist high and bumpy.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Light South/West winds at 10mph.
Sun, clouds, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I get up, check the waves, and it’s very very windy and onshore.  Normal surfers go back to sleep but not us.  I knew Abe-san was up to the challenge so we paddled out early in the morning as nobody was out.  The waves were challenging, but the sky was amazing.

It was really hard to choose the good waves but Abe-san is very experienced.  He knows how to go with the flow and that’s what he did.  Nobody came out the whole 2 hours we were surfing.  Yes, we had the whole ocean to ourselves!

For the past 15 years or so, Abe-san’s been coming to Hawaii once a year and we surf once.  I would bring a 10′ longboard for him.  Then year after year, we surf again on that same longboard.  So basically he surfed once a year only in Hawaii.  Then this past February, he asked me about my magic short board.  This smart man got one, started surfing in Japan once a week, and is totally hooked on surfing again.  When he took off on his first wave, I was totally surprised!  He was so good!

Now Abe-san is very energetic, lost a lot of weight, gained muscle, and looks 10 years younger.

I’m so happy for you!  A magic board could change your life.  And it did!!!

It’s so cool to see the many amazing films at the Hawaii International Film Festival.  People put their hearts into projects and are showing it to the world.  The last time I went to see a surf movie at a theatre like this was 40 years ago at the Queen Theatre in Kaimuki.  I think the movie was Storm Riders.  

So watching Seth Moniz as one of the main surfers in Trilogy was so cool.  There was a crew of 18 people traveling the world making this amazing movie.  You can tell there was a lot of work put into it and it showed.  

Seth has grown up into an amazing waterman.  And is also well respected around the world.  

The footage they used in the movie was breathtaking.  This was my favorite part.  

And Griffin Colapinto is a funny kid.  This kid has dreams of being a world champion and he will become world champion one day.  If you can, please watch the movie called Trilogy.  It’s the best surf movie I seen since Storm Riders!