Travel Memory: Timor, Indonesia.

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 6-10′ and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The waves in town has been super good recently.  Ever since I got back from my trip, the waves have been clean and fun every single day.  I’m loving this extended summer!  This morning was good, but a little tricky.  If you were patient enough, an epic one will come.  I caught a good one and as I was paddling back out, I saw Troy on a better one.  Got my camera out and this was the moment.  A little too close, but close is best with the fisheye lens.  Stoked!

Bali has changed a lot.  Lots of traffic, lots of police, and sometimes a military tank on the road.  When I saw this convoy come by, I ducked under a car.  Scary.  

Machine guns out and ready to fire.  

This wasn’t a drill, this was real.  I think the President was in town.  

Then we get to Sumbawa and there are wild horses running wild, cows everywhere, monkeys at your door, and the most amazing sunrises.  I was doing my morning yoga when Matsu took this photo.  Look good and you can see me doing my freedom pose at the edge of the pool.  Haha.  

I stretch out my arms, take a deep breath, and breathe out “Namaste.”  Then the day will always be fine…