October 16, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Poke bowl market in Wakayama.

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore 4-6′ and good. Huge 15′ swell tomorrow.
Ala Moana waist high and good. New South swell tomorrow.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The Kaiser’s Village

Kimura-san brought a bottle of Jack Daniels to Indonesia.  It went from Bali to Sumbawa.  Then back to Bali again.  It left Sumbawa with our driver at 5am in the morning, and it arrived at our party that night at 9pm.  It couldn’t have been timed any better!  Jack Daniels mixed with fresh coconut water is the best.  Come to find out, that bottle was worth $1,300.  A special bottle for a special occasion.

Watching Matsu tow in foil was pretty cool.  People think it’s easy but it’s very hard to do.  The hard part is getting up, then the harder part is trying to manage all that speed.  You’re going so fast that if you fall, it’s like falling on concrete.  Luckily he didn’t fall on this one.  

This is the best way to travel around Japan.  The Toda-san camping van!  

Te-chan is making a cool little village on his property in Wakayama.  There are guys working on it every day so we got to see it transform daily.  One day this shutter on the garage was blank.

The next morning it’s looking like this.

And that same day, it’s a masterpiece!  Thank you Te-chan for letting me stay at your amazing village!

October 15, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Back in the Day:  Peking Duck on 2016.

Good morning 3:20am.
North shore 6-8′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!