Did you know you have to update your iPhoto library folder if it’s old?  Yes, it doesn’t work with the new operating system.  Anyway, I just spent 3 days doing that.  Then spent a few hours looking at photos.  This one is peak summer at Shirahama Beach in Izu.  This is the same beach I entered the JPSA Pro Trials back in 1993 and became a Japanese Pro Surfer.  A huge turning point in my life…

Pretty funny seeing these fish trying to steal the tako I just hunted.  The fish lost this tug of war battle.

Hanging out in Molokai with the boys.  Living off the mountain and ocean.  Deep fried Manini for dinner.

Just another exploration boat trip with hard core travelers.  Bintang time in North Sumatra when nobody use to go to North Sumatra.

Back to reality.  This morning at Bowls was small and crowded.  I caught just one wave and came in.  Tomorrow I’m going to ride something that one wave will equal ten.  Got it?

Hawaii International Film Festival Red Carpet:  Congratulations Pacific Mother!  Great film, great actress, great mother, and great friend!  So proud of you Judy-chan!

Good morning 3:15am.
North shore chest high and coming up this evening.
Ala Moana waist high and good. South swell on Tuesday.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Check out these drone shots Matsu took at Yoyo’s.  Now it’s pretty easy to explain things.  Yoyo’s was really big the whole time we were there so one of my friends in Hawaii asked me, “why didn’t you guys surf in the inside?”  As you can see, there is no inside.  The inside is dry reef!!!

The reefs in Indonesia are so cool.  They have these little channels going through the lineup.  I use those channels as guides to paddle out, and paddle in.  You can’t see it when you’re actually in the water, so you have to go by feel.  It will suck you out, and suck you in!  Just don’t miss it…

Every morning we would wake up early in Wakayama and take a 30 minute walk.  Stretch on the beach, and observe nature.  

Pretty crazy how these crabs can live so far inland.  I always wonder if you can eat them?  

These snowboard photos popped up on my iPhone.  Made me want to go back and play in the powder snow in Niseko again!  

Next time I’ll be sure to take warmer inner clothes because last time I almost froze to death.  Minus 18 degrees celsius with one tshirt was my problem.  Lessons learned…