It’s so cool to be traveling with such a good group of surfers.  Everyone is so mellow and calm.  Going with the flow everyday whichever Mother Nature leads us.  That’s the only way.

Now it’s been 6 weeks since my knee injury so I’m at 85%.  A little scared to hit the lip hard but I’m going higher and higher each day.  Looking forward to being back to 100!  

When ever I travel with Carter, we somehow score good waves.  The waves we scored so far will be in our conversations for the rest of our lives.  

We’ve been surfing together since we were 13 years old.  Back then we were super competitive but now we get stoked on each others surfing.  Watching this power turn from the side made me excited!  

I came here to get barreled and my first barrel happened on Day 1.  So far, so good…

Driving in the county traffic…

Coming into this trip, we all knew there was going to be a big swell on the first day.  And we all know how Indonesia is tide sensitive so even though it looks small on the low tide, things can change very fast.  On the boat ride out, it was barely head high and soft.  It was looking like a super fun session.  

We jumped off the boat into this perfect right barrel.  When we arrived, it was head high and growing rapidly.  Nobody was out so we had to figure out the take off zone, which was obvious.  Waiting over the shallow slab for a very steep drop.  By my second wave, there were solid double overhead 6′ sets barreling over the shallow reef.  Very powerful and very thick.  Sometimes I caught my heart beating fast so had to slow it down.  Took a deep breath, put my head down, paddled hard, and went for it!    

Then we checked Scar Reef again on the way back.  Compared to earlier in the morning, the ocean looked a lot different.  It came alive!  There were only 2 guys out so Carter and I decided to surf it.  By the time we got to the lineup, each set was growing foot by foot.  Just in that hour we surfed, it jumped from 4′ to 8′ and it was pumping!  I haven’t felt that kind of power in a very long time.  To surf Scar Reef with only 2 other guys out is very very rare.  Compared to the morning chest high with 18 surfers out, I prefer 8′ with 2 guys all the way.  It was like a dream for me!

Back to our resort to catch up on the day.  Lot’s of stories but time to sleep.  Tomorrow should be giant and epic again!  Goodnight from Sumbawa!