Seventy Percent

Neal sent me this photo 6 weeks ago.  This was the day I injured my knee.  It was a small day but these are the days surfers usually get hurt.  Since then, I’ve been doing intensive physical therapy with my Doctor 2x a week, and more intensive physical therapy the other 5 days a week by myself.  Even though this is supposed to be a 3-4 month injury, I was determined to get back in the ocean before my trip.    

Neal sent me these photos just now.  This was the past swell we had.  Four weeks into my injury, I’m surfing at 70%.  My knee still hurts so I’m still holding back somewhat.    

All that physical training I’ve been doing every morning at 3am when I wake up has made me stronger.  If this is 70%, I can’t wait till I’m back at a 100%.  Thank you Neal for this photo because it’s inspiring me to get mentally stronger, physically stronger, so I can surf stronger than ever.

By the way, I hope my Doctor doesn’t see this.  He will scold me.  I’m only supposed to be going straight on a longboard.  Opps…

Calculated Packing

Spent some peaceful time today sitting along the Nuuanu stream at Grandpa’s old house.  It was such a happy place that I didn’t want to leave.

Then I came home and started packing.  We’ll be flying on 3 different flights with different rules so you have to be well prepared.  One bag can weight up to 50lbs or 23kg so I’m making sure it’s exactly that.  One miscalculation could cost you a lot of money, or worst, your boards not getting on the flight.  I still remember my last trip arriving in Bali without my board bag.  It took 3 long days to get it back.  What a nightmare.

For once in a very long time, I stayed up past my bedtime to meet some friends.  

We sat, watched the sunset, had a drink, ate dinner, and laughed.  Thank you girls for the wonderful night!

September 9, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Kyle with Style…

Good morning 4:15am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!