Darren on the wave of the day AGAIN!  Yippie!!!

Good morning 4am.
SOUTH SWELL HERE!
Ala Moana head high with overhead sets and good.
Diamond Head overhead and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Had a great time this early morning with 4 doctors who surf.  All super cool surfers that I respect.  In this world we live in, the more doctors the better.  And if they surf, even better.  Photos coming later.

Then straight back out for Round 2.  On this trip, Hashimoto-san improved so much.  Just watching his stoke is so fun.  Like always, we’re laughing out loud the whole time.

A very nice man who loves to surf.

Thank you Hashimoto-san!  Keep on surfing!

Spending 5 hours in the ocean and getting home before lunch.  Then a good nap, planning a trip, a hot sauna, then a healthy dinner.  Looks like I’ll be sleeping by 6:30pm.  Can’t wait for tomorrow!

Ever since I got my first barrel at 12 years old, I fell in love with the feeling.  It’s hard to describe but imagine pulling into one and everything goes silent.  It’s like time just freezes and you’re at peace.  And the longer you’re in the barrel, the better it feels.  I think it’s the absolutely best feeling in the world.  Chasing barrels was my job for decades which was like a dream.  And of all the places I’ve traveled in the world, Indonesia has to be the best.  It’s consistent,  it’s warm, and everywhere barrels.

We all have busy schedules so we planned our upcoming trip a long time ago.  Of course at that time, nobody knew how the waves were going to be, but since the dates are getting closer, we have a better idea.   I checked the forecast last night and when I saw that we’re going to be getting two huge back to back swells, my body started to tingle.  The first one 8-10′ and the next 10-15′!  I’m going to have a hard time sleeping until then.  But once we arrive, all I’m going to do is search for the barrel!