It’s so cool to see the many amazing films at the Hawaii International Film Festival.  People put their hearts into projects and are showing it to the world.  The last time I went to see a surf movie at a theatre like this was 40 years ago at the Queen Theatre in Kaimuki.  I think the movie was Storm Riders.  

So watching Seth Moniz as one of the main surfers in Trilogy was so cool.  There was a crew of 18 people traveling the world making this amazing movie.  You can tell there was a lot of work put into it and it showed.  

Seth has grown up into an amazing waterman.  And is also well respected around the world.  

The footage they used in the movie was breathtaking.  This was my favorite part.  

And Griffin Colapinto is a funny kid.  This kid has dreams of being a world champion and he will become world champion one day.  If you can, please watch the movie called Trilogy.  It’s the best surf movie I seen since Storm Riders!

The best place to be at sunrise…

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore coming up to 3-5′ today. Offshore in the morning.
Ala Moana waist high and bumpy.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
South winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Had a super fun session at Bowls with Ryuushi-san this morning.  He rode my magic board and we worked on simple technique.  Wave by wave he got better and better.  Excellent surfing!  

The waves were way better than expected.  Absolute perfect conditions!!!  

It got pretty crowded but there were enough waves for everyone.    

While Stu and I were having a conversation, he saw something swim right under us.  He pointed it out and said “tiger shark!”  

Thank goodness it wasn’t a tiger shark, but a shark is a shark.  See it on the right side of this photo?  It was actually hunting something right under our feet.

Then he came back again and again looking for food.  It’s pretty shallow so imagine this thing looking up and thinking your foot is food?

When sharks are hunting right under your feet, it’s time to go in.  So we caught one more and went in.  This was Ryuushi-san’s last wave which was super beautiful.  Another wonderful day in paradise!