Foot Placement

 

Surfed this morning with Tamura-san.  Super cool surfer that’s always smiling.  The waves were perfect for Boot Camp.

When I ride behind someone, I’m hoping they do something special.  Just like this.

Every wave Tamura-san rode, he was smiling.

Backside grab rail with the peace sign.  I love this!

If you want your surfboard to work properly, you have to place your back foot on the sweet spot of the board.  And once you find it, your board will do all the work.  It’s like pressing the gas pedal on a car.  Look where my back foot is placed and go try that on your board.  It will love you!

Thank you Tamura-san.  Keep on smiling!

Round 2 was at Diamond Head.  Few surfers and lots of waves.  Good choice!

A Day in Kalihi

If you want to see local Hawaii lifestyle with zero tourists, Kalihi is the place.  This is a farmers market set up right on the side of the road.  Very cheap and very local.

We stopped by Tamashiro Market to check out the fresh catch of the day.

Inflation even affects seafood!  I couldn’t believe how expensive the fish was.  

Till this day, I still can’t see myself buying fish from the market.  Seeing this made me want to start diving again.  I miss catching my own dinner.  

This was the first time I saw “Kala poke.”  if you don’t know what Kala is, it’s a green fish that eats seaweed so the meat is very smelly.  I never thought you could eat it raw.  And no, I didn’t want to try because I know what it smells like.  

This is Kala.  Great for the BBQ but not to sure about raw.  Maybe next time I’ll try it.   

I see a lot of Kumu in the ocean in Japan.  Nobody really eats it so it’s very cheap in the market.  I saw it going for $2/pound in a Okinawa fish market.  This Kumu imported from Japan will cost you $18.95/pound here.  That’s called “import tax.”

August 27, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Early Bird gets the Worm…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Mohan knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!