Be water my friend…

Good morning 3:40am.
North shore head high and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Cloudy with some sun.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

After a wonderful surf at Bowls this morning, I came home and started to clean places I haven’t cleaned in 25 years.  I got on my hands and knees , crawled under my house, and started throwing things away.  Whenever I put things on my street, I don’t put it in trash can because someone always comes and takes things before the rubbish truck comes.  The saying goes “one mans trash is another mans treasure.”    

Then I find something covered in dirt on the bottom of all my broken surfboards.  It’s a classic Town and Country single fin!  OMG!  This board has been under my house for over 30 years!  

So I stopped everything and cleaned it up.  All the time thinking about how I’m going to take this board out to big Sunset Beach and ride huge waves like I use to back in the 80’s.    

In 1988, I remember riding a 6’8 Town and Country board on huge closeout days at Sunset Beach with Tony.  This one is a 7’1 so it should be easy.  I’m so excited to try!

After I cleaned it up, I sent the photos to Glenn Minami because he shaped it.  He told me he shaped this board 42 years ago!  I asked him if he thinks it will handle big Sunset.  He replied “just got to try it.”  That’s exactly what I’m going to do this winter!

Being a travel surfer, you have to be willing and able to move at any moment.  The ocean changes so plans change.  We decided to head back to Bali a day earlier so we set up our office and searched for a way back.  This is called “teamwork.”

Just in a couple of days, we saw 2 big trucks that crossed the road and overturned in the bushes.  The roads are steep and narrow so this seems to be a normal occurrence.  Driving on that road multiple times a day was pretty nerve-racking.

Instead of the original plan of an airplane from Sumbawa to Bali, the only other way was to ride a ferry to Lombok, take a long drive, and catch an airplane from Lombok to Bali.

There are no set time schedules for the ferries in Sumbawa.  They come when they come, and they leave when they leave.  You have no control over that.

Pulling into Lombok and hoping you make your flight back to Bali.  If you miss it, you’re going to have to take another long ferry ride which will add on 7 hours of travel time.

Everyone is anxious to get off the ferry.  It’s funny how there are no rules.  When they open the gate, you just go.

We left Sumbawa at 5am and arrived in Bali at 2pm.  A long day of traveling but a great experience.  The birthday party that followed was worth the trouble…